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Even Better the Second Time
By bukkhead | June 29, 2007
I have had two occasions to dine at Sazerac now. The first was during a 25 for 25 event. This is Seattle’s bi-annual celebration of local restaurants, offering a three course prix-fixe menu for 25 dollars. I don’t remember much from this first time, except that the food was good, the atmosphere comfortable, the corn-bread was amazing, and the mayor of Seattle was sitting at a nearby table (someone had to point this out to me, though, as I just don’t have the patience to follow local politics). The corn bread was so good, in fact, that a few weeks later the GF and I called them up to order some, to go, for the chili she had made that night. Nothing doing, though—they wouldn’t sell any to us, giving us a take-away box full for free instead. Classy.
The second occasion was a few days ago, part of our anniversary celebration. Pretty much perfect, in my opinion. They knew we were celebrating, so they sat us in a romantic spot with a view of the restaurant. The décor is funky without being outlandish, high ceilings with hanging lights done up in quirky canvas, and matching artwork on the high walls, hung with enormous push-pins. It’s playful without being childish. And the wait staff are easy going and professional, but not stuffy in the least.
I’m horrible with names and no gastronome, so bear with me here. We had a brioche, I think it was, to start us off, which was excellent, and of course, that basket of amazing cornbread. I ordered from their prix-fixe menu (not the 25 for 25 menu, but their own) a course of three for $30, and a complimenting wine flight for $12. I began with a Caeser, and the GF had a mushroom barley soup (please check the comments, as the GF IS a gastronome, and will correct me if I report something wrong). Both were light, tasty, satisfying but leaving us ready for more.
For the main course I had pork ribs and the GF had roast duck. I prefer beef ribs, but I like all things pork, and these ribs were mouth-watering. The barbecue glaze was sweet with just a tiny hint of spice, perfectly suited to the pork, cooked to tenderness but not mushy. The GF doesn’t like her food to be even close to underdone, so she asked for the duck cooked well, which can, alas, dry out the meat. Chefs Jan Birnbaum and Jason McClure know what they’re doing, though—the duck was well done and not in the least dry.
My dessert was “cookies to go,” which we took back to our room and nibbled on through the night. Fairly good, but then, cookies are cookies, and as long as they are not dry, I can’t find a reason to dislike any cookie.
Sazerac will now go in my book of “places to take folks who have discerning palettes who nevertheless don’t want a snooty restaurant experience.”
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